Days 1 & 2
My flight to Cusco was scheduled to arrive around 5 pm on August 10, leaving me plenty of time to stave off altitude sickness, do some exploring around the famously beautiful Plaza de Armas, and get settled into my hostel. Unfortunately, as has now happened with 100% of my (two) flights out of that airport, it was delayed, so I arrived as the sun was setting. After a very pleasant cab ride with yet another Peruvian man 1) commenting on my ability to hold a moderately interesting conversation in Spanish, 2) asking me if I'm single, 3) trying to add me on Facebook, 4) and telling me that where I'm going is "safe during the day, but a bit dangerous at night, so you should always call a cab, here's my phone number and look, there's my house, it's very close to where you're staying," I felt uncomfortable enough that I chose not to venture out of the hostel after I arrived. It helps that El Tuco has excellent WiFi and comfortable beds! I spent a great night watching the beginning of Wet Hot American Summer: The First Day, which is hilarious and includes at least 80% of Hollywood's funniest actors.
As I was enjoying breakfast (bread with butter and jam, as well as a great selection of teas) and planning my day in the city, I made a hostel friend! Holger, a doctor from Germany who is traveling all over the world for five months, asked if I wanted to join him and David, a British citizen living in DC who is traveling for a few months before he and his wife move to the midwest, on their trip to the Pisac ruins. So, off we went to find the collective taxis. These are actually really nice vans which take advantage of the large volume of people heading from one side of a certain mountain to the other. They're very safe the ride each way cost 4 soles per person - a regular cab would have been over five times as much! When we arrived in the town of Pisac, we hired a taxi to take us up the mountain to the ruins for 10 soles each (we probably could have haggled this price down, for any future travelers). When we got to the ruins' entrance, we ran into a small snag: to enter the ruins, you have to purchase a Boleto Turistico, which serves as a pass to multiple sights throughout the Cusco area. These aren't cheap in a country where most entrance fees are less than $4 - the full ticket costs 140 soles, or about $45. Students can get half-priced tickets, so I was happy to have my J-Card with me! This ticket allows entry to nine archaeological sites throughout the Sacred Valley and seven museums in Cusco, and is valid for ten days. There is also a partial ticket for 70 soles ($23), which includes entrance to four of the archaeological sites and is only valid for one day. You cannot purchase entry to any one of these sites; the Boleto Turistico is required. Now, if you have time to visit all of those places, this is a great deal, and each site on the full-price ticket costs less than $3 for entry. As an almost-economist, I immediately had questions about this:
- When was this policy put into place, and has tourism changed since then?
- What are the most and least popular sites? What were the most and least popular sites before the ticket was put into place?
- What is the market value of entry into each of the parks?
- How much money would the Government of Peru make if each park charged an entrance fee based on its demand for tourism?
- Does having free entrance into this many sites cause tourists who didn't know about this system to visit more sites? In other words, does it lower the marginal cost of going to any sites just enough that they get more traffic?
- What possible externalities, positive or negative, have arisen from this policy?
- How is revenue allocated among each site?
- How much does upkeep cost for each site?
- Do tourists prefer to have lots of options, or few? For example, I didn't know much about most of the sites on the ticket, and am feeling overwhelmed by the new information. Behavioral economists have done a lot of research on the paradox of choice - when presented with too many or too complex options, people often choose not to choose. Does this provide any insight into the Boleto Turistico system?
I'm going to send these questions to the guys at Freakonomics. Readers, if you have comments on these ideas, additional questions, or ideas about where to get funding to travel to Peru and write a paper on these topics, please let me know.
Enough about that, please enjoy some pictures from Pisac! The place is definitely worth a visit. The ruins used to be a large Inca fortress used to watch and protect against the incoming Spanish invaders. At first glance, it looks just like a small collection of old buildings. As you walk around, however, you continue to find paths to new outposts, tunnels, and thousands of stairs. We kept telling ourselves it was good practice for Machu Picchu.
After hiking back down to Pisac, we took another collective taxi and went our separate ways in Cusco. Inspired by my Boleto Turistico, I went to check out the Museum of Regional History, a great little museum that covers Cusco's history from prehistoric fossils to independence. The museum had some artifacts from pre-Incan civilizations and many from the Incan era. There was lots of art depicting the Spanish invasion and subsequent evangelism, as well as the Peruvian fight for independence. Definitely worth the sunk cost of my Boleto Turistico! After a meeting with Wild Watch Peru and dinner with Holger in the hostel kitchen, it was time to pack my backpack for the Amazon and go to sleep. Stay tuned: next Thursday, I'll be doing my best to visit four sets of ruins and four museums, all before they all close at 6!
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Before I got in trouble for taking pictures inside the museum, I snapped this one of a giant armadillo skeleton (bottom) and the mural on the wall behind it. I'm hoping that these enormous sloths were real! |
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Cusco's Plaza de Armas (the central plaza), like most in Latin America, has a giant beautiful church. The difference with Cusco, however, is that it actually has two! This one is the second-most-important church. |
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And this is the most important church in the city, La Catedral! |
Day 3
After returning from the
jungle, I had a full day in Cusco to try to get the most value possible out of my Boleto Turistico. I had a detailed plan to take a taxi to Tambomachay, the farthest walkable ruins, and to meander back to Cusco via the other three Incan sites along the way (Puca Pucara, Saqsaywaman, and Qenqo). After the ruins, I planned to visit the four museums left on my ticket (Modern Art, Popular Art, Qoriqancha, and Native Art). Instead, I got overly ambitious and tried to walk to Tambomachay, which should have taken about an hour and a half. On the way, however, I had at least three people tell me it was too dangerous for me to walk there. So, I gave up on Tambomachay and Puca Pucara and headed for Saqsaywaman (pronounced "sexy woman" by most tour guides looking for a laugh and a tip). The ruins, which were partially built by a pre-Incan culture called Killke and later expanded by the Incas, served as a fortress. The
Wikipedia page for the complex is really interesting; check it out if you want to learn more!
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Llamas roaming around Saqsaywaman |
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The fortress. Some of these rocks are twice as tall as I am - it's a mystery how the Incas managed to transport them all the way here! |
Qenqo is a short walk from Sacsayhuaman, so I headed there next. It's much smaller, but very cool, with an underground cavern used for Inca ceremonies.
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Outside of the Qenqo ruins |
The giant Cristo Blanco statue was on the way back to the city, so I stopped there for a quick picture and a look at the view.
I entered the city through San Blas, Cusco's historic district, and sat in the plaza reading for a little while. Right off the plaza, I found this little restaurant called the
Meeting Place Cafe, which advertised waffles and milkshakes. I was a little skeptical (I usually don't like going to places where the signs are all in English), but hungry, and the place was really crowded. It was a
great choice - I had the Monkey Business waffles (belgian waffles with chocolate sauce and bananas), which were amazing - and I learned that it's an entirely volunteer-run organization. All of the profits go to selected charities operating in and around Cusco, including an after-school program for children of single mothers. They also have a very friendly cat who came and sat with me for a while! I highly recommend this place to any future Cusco visitors. Another recommendation:
The Goldfinch by Donna Tartt. Despite the fact that it's quite depressing, this book is really good! (I'm apparently on a Pulitzer Prize kick right now. Has anyone read
The Orphan Master's Son?)
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Made a new friend! |
After my brunch, I headed to Museo Maximo Laura (on the recommendation of my good friends Paige and Jenna, Cusco experts), just around the corner. It's a gallery featuring Maximo Laura's beautiful tapestries. There was a man weaving a tapestry on a loom right in the middle of the showroom, but I couldn't tell if it was Laura himself or not. Regardless, a very cool and intricate process to watch. Next up were the Museum of Modern Art and Museum of Popular Art, both very interesting. I tried to visit the Qoriqancha Museum (included in the Boleto Turistico) and ended up in the actual temple/church instead, a mistake I'm very glad I made! Originally, Qoriqancha was the principal temple in the Incas' principal city. When the Spanish arrived, they built a convent (Santo Domingo) on top of it, and the original temple was lost until an earthquake in 1950. The convent walls couldn't withstand the shaking, but the original Inca stonework could, so the ruins were uncovered! Now, it's a great museum
and a convent (I even saw some nuns walking around), and the student ticket was only 7 soles (about $2, thanks to the continually improving exchange rate).
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Qoriqancha/Convento de Santo Domingo. The original Inca stonework is the gray at the bottom, while the Spanish architecture makes up the bricks on the top. |
I stopped into the actual Museo del Sitio Qoriqancha after this, where I ran into my Chinese family! They were much friendlier in Cusco than they had been in the jungle, and they were no longer wearing their mosquito net outfits. After discovering that the Museum of Native Art was, in fact, a nightly dance show and not a museum, I headed back to Plaza de Armas in search of the famous 12-angle stone. After grabbing a quick dinner and meeting with
Bioandean Expeditions, my trekking company, I headed back to El Tuco to pack and get ready for my Salkantay Trek the next morning (updates to come soon)!
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Apparently this is a very big deal. |